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Mountain Zebra National Park
Not only is the Mountain Zebra National Park a safe and scenic haven for an endangered species, but it is also one of South Africa’s least known and most rewarding national parks.
Magnificently situated on the northern slopes of the Bankberg in the high plateaux of the Karoo, the 6 536 ha Mountain Zebra National Park lies about 25 km from Cradock, the nearest town, with historic Graaff-Reinet about 80 km west as the crow flies.
Although the park was established purely for protection of the near extinct Equus zebra, it is surely the diamond of South Africa’s national parks: a spectacular mountainous wilderness unchanged for eons.
Bracing champagne air, beautiful vistas, profound silence and wide open spaces are all on offer and, in addition, visitors are rewarded with a very personal wilderness experience. Here they can move through the environment unchallenged by dangerous big game, yet enjoy a fascinating variety of wildlife in its natural habitat.
The lovely Cape mountain zebra once roamed freely in the Cape’s mountains, but by the time the park was established in 1937 hunters had all but wiped them out. The farm Babylons Toren was bought by the National Parks Board, who used it as a core for the establishment of the park.
This species is the rarest, smallest and most beautiful of the zebras: only 1,2 m high with stunning geometrical stripes completely different to those of any other zebra species. In fact, each of the zebras is unique and identifiable by its stripe pattern, and this rare population is documented and studied by means of stock book. Their numbers have climbed from 25 in 1964 to over 200 today. In addition, an equal number have been relocated to other parks in the Cape to recolonise their ancestors’ stamping grounds.
Many other indigenous creatures also have their home here, and visitors should head for the good grazing of the Rooiplaat plateau, as this is where the antelope tend to converge. You’re likely to see kudu, springbok, wildebeest, eland, blesbok, steenbok, red hartebeest, grey rhebok, mountain reedbuck, klipspringer and duiker. Various predators prowl the area: cats such as the caracal, the small but vicious black-footed cat and the African wild cat; aardwolf, cape fox, bat-eared fox and blackbacked jackal are also found.
The unique Karoo vegetation includes sweet thorn, karee, Karoo aster, globe karoo, the wonderfully named koggelmandervoetkaroo and witmuistepelkaroo , aloes, kiepersol, trees, groves of wild olives in the high ravines, white stinkwood, camphor bush and glossy currant.
A particularly fascinating inhabitant of the park is the long-horn beetle, recognisable by its impressive antlers and distinctive colouring. As soon as the larvae of these beetle-warriors hatch, they begin to eat each other, and this cannibalistic feeding frenzy ends only when they are too few and far apart to meet.
Another attraction is the hiking trail which takes in the parks most beautiful and dramatic scenery, and is by far the best way to experience the park. The trail is criss-crossed with game tracks and there are Bushmen paintings to be discovered. The 31-km trail takes three days and two nights to complete, and leaves from and arrives back at the rest camp. Overnight accommodation is provided in picturesque stone huts.
The park also boasts a national monument in the form of Doornhoek, an old farmstead overlooking a dam which served as the set for the TV series Story of an African Farm. Dating back to 1836, the farmhouse has been meticulously restored and features yellowwood ceilings, oregon pine floors, copper door handles and stained glass windows. Beautifully furnished with pieces dating back from that era, Doornhoek also has modern conveniences and can be hired as a guesthouse for a maximum of six people.
Accommodation can also be found at the rest camp in chalets or, alternatively, there are also caravan and camping sites.
To get to the park, take the N1 south from Johannesburg and continue for as far as Colesburg, then the N9 to Middelburg. Just south of Middelburg, turn left onto the N10 and continue for about 95 km until, about 6 km before Cradock, you turn right onto the Graaff-Reinet road. After about 5 km, take the road to your left and from there the way is well signposted..
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